How to Feed Your Dog
A suitable diet encompasses all essential and non-essential amino acids, balanced with carbohydrates, fats, vitamins, minerals, and water, providing a healthy intake of necessary nutrients. While the diet must be palatable, it should also be easily digestible and tailored to the dog’s individual needs based on age, health, and activity level. Dog nutrition is a priority for all dog owners and carers, as “optimal nutrition underlies optimal health” (Barbara Fougere, BSc, BVMS (Hons)).
An Appropriate Diet
A species-appropriate diet, sometimes called ‘BARF’ (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food) or ‘natural,’ is based on raw protein from uncooked meaty bones, vegetables, and fruit, cooked or pulped only when necessary to break down cellulose for digestion. It includes limited gluten-rich grains, rice, and second-class proteins like cheese or nuts, or home-cooked meals. Ancestral dogs consumed whole prey—bones, flesh, organs, and gut contents for fibre, skin, and feathers—providing a balanced nutrient profile. In modern times, meaty bones alone aren’t enough, but combining raw meat, vegetables, fruits, seeds, and suitable grains offers a close equivalent. This diet, when monitored and adjusted, ensures high energy, easy digestion, healthy skin and coat, and strong teeth and gums—benefits commercial foods often promise. It’s more cost-effective than commercial diets but requires time and management.
Commercial Diets
Commercial diets are easy to use, requiring little management, but are costly and poorly regulated. Manufacturers often use cheap ingredients and alter recipes, using vague packaging to avoid reprinting costs. These foods typically contain low-quality proteins and chemically flavoured fats, made palatable for dogs, with colourings added to appeal to humans. Misleading terms like “premium,” “whole health,” or “meaty goodness” aim to instil confidence without transparency.
Converting Dry Matter Basis
Comparing pet foods can be challenging due to varying moisture levels. Canned foods may have up to 80% moisture, while some dry foods have as little as 6%. This matters because food is priced by weight—80% moisture means only 20% is actual food, making it less cost-effective. Moisture levels also affect protein and fat comparisons between brands and formats (canned vs. dry). Labels show nutrients as-is, not on a dry matter basis, so conversion is needed for accurate comparison.
For example, a dry food with 10% moisture has 90% dry matter. If the label shows 20% protein, divide 20 by 90 to get 22% protein on a dry matter basis. For canned food with 80% moisture (20% dry matter) and 5% protein, divide 5 by 20 to get 25% protein on a dry matter basis. Thus, the canned food has more protein per pound after removing water.
Consider a well-known, expensive “lamb and rice – gluten-free” brand. Its label lists only 4% lamb, 2% “meaty extract,” and 5% brown rice, with the rest being soluble fats, soya, beet pulp (sugar industry by-product), syrup, and yeast. It claims 24% protein, but with only 4% meat, the source is unclear. Added “extra vitamins and minerals” may exceed or fall short of the RDA, assuming uniform mixing. It also boasts “extract of Yucca” for reducing flatulence and odours, but this doesn’t justify the lack of transparency.
Many owners rely on manufacturers’ so-called expertise, which often limits factual information while using marketing to reassure buyers. For example, one brand claims: “Very few pet foods are processed as thoroughly, slowly, and hot as our line. Processing is as important as ingredients, and a label only tells part of the story.” Labels should tell the whole story for informed choices.
A few years ago, we rescued Zak, a 4-year-old Clumber Spaniel with severe ulcerating skin conditions affecting his larynx and colon. He’d been fed only a popular dry food, sold by his vet, who claimed other foods upset his stomach. His carers believed his condition was genetic, spending heavily on prescriptions, as insurance wouldn’t cover it. They left him with us, tearfully providing three months of two antibiotics (broad-spectrum for “better days,” specific for “bad days”), steroids, and homeopathic tea tree lotion, insisting his diet remain unchanged. Over three months, we gradually shifted him to 70% home-produced/raw food, boosting his immune system with vitamins C, B2, biotin, and zinc. After four more months, we cleared his system of antibiotics and steroids, enabling natural steroid production. By his fifth birthday, he had new skin and a full coat. Sadly, insufficient water intake from the dry food diet left his liver and kidneys damaged, and he lived only to age 7.
Providing “optimal food for optimal health” is the responsibility of all dog owners. Nutrition is complex but not rocket science. We can learn our dogs’ needs—unfortunately, they can’t advocate for themselves.
Starting Pups or Crossover Dogs on a natural Diet
If a puppy hasn’t been raised on a natural diet by the breeder, introduce it gradually, increasing raw or home-cooked portions over time. Here are my recipes for transitioning rescue dogs or weaning pups.
Barf Diet
- Raw Stuff: Even chicken is safe raw.
- Chicken Necks: Small bones teach chewing. Most BARF suppliers offer them.
- Chicken Wings: Great for chewing practice and adding weight due to fat content.
- Duck: Any part is excellent for weight gain, though pricey unless sourced from local shoots.
- Raw/Ground Minced Lamb, Chicken, or Pork: Mix with rice, pasta, grated carrots, or a processed raw veggie mix, plus wholemeal mixer.
- Fish: Whole oily fish (herring, mackerel, sardines, pilchards) are best. Bones are safe, but avoid smoked fish.
Cooked Meals
Meat Porridge
Boil a large chicken or lamb breast/neck in plain water with olive or vegetable oil until well-cooked (less cooked as pups or older dogs adjust, eventually raw). Drain, cool, and check for bones in the stock. Add 1kg (2.2lb) quality pasta or rice and potato/vegetable peelings (no onions). If no vegetables are available, use barley, lentils, or oats. Cook thoroughly, pick down the meat, combine, and feed in portions with wholemeal mixer.
Offal
Liver, lungs, hearts, tripe, kidney, brains, and tongue are excellent, especially as pups or older dogs adjust. Lightly boil in plain water with oats or lentils, but feed vegetables raw (processed or grated).
Pig or sheep heads from butchers are cheap. Boil until cooked, strip everything (skin roasted crispy for chews), and use the meat in the boiling water as above. Skip if sensitive to handling meat.
Pate for Kongs and Liver Cake for Rewards
Pate: Cook 1kg (2.2lb) liver and 2kg (4.4lb) belly pork lightly in oil, keeping it slightly bloody. Process to a smooth paste, bake in a loaf tin in a water tray until just firm. If too firm when cooled, mix with margarine, oil, or cream cheese. See our Kong recipes post for more stuffing ideas for Kongs.
Liver Cake: Blend 1kg (2.2lb) liver, 2 mugs of semolina, rice flour, or potato flour, and 2 eggs. Bake in a tray until firm and dry, then cut into tiny squares. Read our Liver cake recipe for more information and for a step-by-step guide
Liver Strips: Wash blood off 1kg (2.2lb) liver, dry in a low oven until completely dry, and cut into thin strips. See our liver treat recipe guide for step-by-step instructions.
Extra Special Bingo Treats: Dry belly pork and pig trotters similarly. See our dog pork scratching recipe.
Bone: Raw meaty bones are ideal. Avoid beef (my preference, though others use it). Use easy-to-crunch bones (ribs, neck, shoulder) for meals and large knuckle bones for marrow and teeth cleaning. For a 40kg (88lb) dog, 6 months and up, feed two large lamb breasts and two shin/knuckle bones at lunchtime. On bone-only days, reduce by a third and add a lighter meal (fish, minced raw chicken/lamb with wholemeal, pasta, or rice, plus fruit/vegetables). Start pups/rescues with one bone daily (chicken necks/wings) and increase gradually.
Training with Bones
Bones are high-value to dogs. Train them to give up bones and teach children not to disturb dogs eating bones to ensure safety.
Where to Find Your Dog Food
Connect with local game butchers for cheap cuts and bones. Contact local shoots for excess rabbits. Supermarkets like Lidl, Aldi, and Netto offer human-grade meats, free-flow mince, and sardines (~30p/tin) on sell-off days (e.g., Thursdays, Mondays). At markets, buy bruised fruit and vegetables near closing time or ask fishmongers for heads, roes, or unsold fish. Larger supermarkets (Sainsbury’s, Tesco, Asda) have clearance days; Morrisons sell bone packs (~30p). Use human-grade foods to avoid harmful preservatives like vitamin K3. Stock up on supplements (oil capsules, honey, sea kelp) during Holland & Barrett’s two-for-one offers. We spend ~30p per dog daily for our 33kg (73lb) females and 40kg (88lb) males.
Dietary Requirements for Healthy Dogs
Individual dogs have unique nutritional needs, varying by breed, lifestyle, environment, and life stage. A balanced diet includes six nutrient groups:
- Proteins
- Carbohydrates
- Fats
- Vitamins
- Minerals
- Water
These provide the 45 essential nutrients for health. Quality depends on nutrient balance, not just ingredients, though palatability, digestibility, and cost matter.
Protein
Puppies and juveniles need high-quality proteins (40% of diet) for growth, as amino acids produce toxic waste (nitrogen compounds) if low-quality. By 3 months to 1 year, 40% raw protein meets needs if high-quality. Adults require ~5% less, adjusted for breed, activity, and stress (e.g., pregnancy). Overfeeding protein strains urea and liver function. Obese or older dogs need ~25% protein to reduce kidney/liver strain and avoid obesity from high-fat proteins.
Fat
Fat stores vitamins A and E, supporting coat, breeding, and organ function. It provides immediate energy, but excess causes obesity. Puppies/juveniles need ~15% fat; adults/geriatrics need 10–12% unless highly active. High-fat diets strain the liver, heart, and muscles in older dogs.
Carbohydrate
Carbohydrates provide energy via glucose, stored in the liver/muscles. Easily digestible forms (50–60% of puppy/juvenile diets, 90% digestible fibre) prevent digestive issues. Adult dogs need ~50% carbohydrates, or 60% for active working dogs.
Vitamins and Minerals
Minerals and vitamins are interdependent (e.g., calcium with vitamin D, phosphorus). A balanced diet provides the RDA, with deficiencies often noticed only when health issues arise. Calcium and phosphorus support bones, teeth, blood clotting, and energy transfer, but excess causes bone growth issues in puppies. Other key minerals:
- Magnesium: Supports bones, teeth, and enzyme reactions.
- Potassium: Aids metabolism, nerve/muscle function, and fluid balance.
- Sodium: Regulates fluids; excess strains kidneys.
- Iron and Copper: Enhance blood and enzyme systems; deficiencies cause fatigue, anaemia.
- Zinc: Maintains skin/coat; deficiencies cause growth issues or testicular atrophy.
- Iodine: Supports thyroid health; imbalances cause tiredness, poor reproduction.
- Selenium: Antioxidant with vitamin E; toxic in large doses.
- Manganese: Aids carbohydrate/fat metabolism; deficiencies slow growth, affect reproduction.
- Cobalt: Part of vitamin B12; deficiencies rare.
Key vitamins:
- Vitamin A: Supports vision, skin, and coat; toxic in excess.
- Vitamin D: Aids calcium absorption; deficiencies cause rickets.
- Vitamin E: Protects cells with selenium.
- Vitamin K: Regulates blood clotting.
- Vitamin B1 (Thiamine): Aids carbohydrate metabolism; deficiencies cause weight loss.
- Vitamin B2: Supports cell growth; deficiencies cause skin/eye issues.
- Vitamin B6: Aids amino acid metabolism; deficiencies cause anaemia, kidney damage.
- Biotin: Maintains skin/hair; antibiotic/steroid use causes deficiencies (e.g., skin ulcers).
- Folic Acid: Supports red blood cell maturation; deficiencies cause anaemia, especially post-whelping.
Do You Give Your Dogs Fruit and Veg?
Canines are meat-eaters but graze on stomach contents of prey in the wild. My ethos is simple: if dogs eat it, they like it and it’s good for them. My dogs, from pups to rescues, get fruit, vegetables, and herbs. In my large garden, they graze selectively, especially in the herb garden.
For example, Amilou munched fennel during “girlie period problems,” a natural remedy in Egyptian times. Falkor, with pancreatic cancer, ate lemon balm shoots to aid liver bile production. Ami loves watercress, a natural antioxidant high in folic acid, even breaking ice to dig it up. They enjoy wild garlic shoots (repelling ticks/fleas) and flowering clover. Grass grazing acts like liver salts, aiding digestion when they’re feeling off.
My dogs feast on blackberries, sloes, cow parsley seeds, cherries, apples, and plums in summer/autumn. In winter, I buy cheap bruised produce or fruit/vegetable juice from Aldi. For urinary infections, cranberry juice works if caught early. I use raw vegetables (e.g., Brussels sprouts, peas) as low-calorie training treats. Cubert learned recall at 10 weeks with frozen peas!
Encourage grazing and use raw fruit/vegetables for training. Dogs self-select healing foods when needed.
Our Hollysocks, who reached 16 years and 5 months, was a rescue at age 3, severely abused with mental and physical issues. Fed natural recipes, free of chemical wormers, flea treatments, steroids, or antibiotics, and allowed to graze, she lived far beyond the Clumber Spaniel average, visiting the vet only once between ages 3 and 16. Natural diets minimize issues like upset stomachs, itchy skin, or ear problems, saving on vet costs.
